Sometimes the most amazing places aren't found along the route, but in a turn in the road, where you find yourself almost by accident. That's how I first found myself in Kastoria —a quiet, ancient city in northern Greece, where Lake Orestiada mirrors the sky, and the houses recall Byzantium and the Ottomans, merchants and poets. The journey from Thessaloniki took a little over two hours. The bus glided past hills, and suddenly—the silvery expanse of water, rooftops immersed