Every island has its own heart. For Corfu, it's the sea. I still can't quite tell what color it is. Sometimes it's turquoise, almost transparent like glass. Sometimes it's blue, thick like fabric. And sometimes it's gray, when clouds hang on the horizon and everything becomes watercolor. But I know exactly what it feels like: warm. Moving. Alive. The Ionian Sea can be a mirror. It shows you not itself, but you in the moment. Your anxiety, your silence, your joy. It does not d