Kastoria – the lake dream of Northern Greece.

Лилия Денисенко
Oct 18, 2025
3 min read

Updated: Dec 12, 2025

Sometimes the most amazing places aren't found along the route, but in a turn in the road, where you find yourself almost by accident. That's how I first found myself in Kastoria —a quiet, ancient city in northern Greece, where Lake Orestiada mirrors the sky, and the houses recall Byzantium and the Ottomans, merchants and poets.

The journey from Thessaloniki took a little over two hours. The bus glided past hills, and suddenly—the silvery expanse of water, rooftops immersed in greenery, the ringing of bells. This is Kastoria—a city that lives between reflections and time.

Where to stay

I chose Venetoula's Mansion B&B , a boutique guesthouse in the old quarter of Doltso. White walls, wooden beams, the aroma of morning coffee, and a view from the terrace where the lake seems to be right at your doorstep.

If I were to return here in the spring, I would probably stay at Vergoula's Mansion. — in one of the old Ottoman mansions, where geraniums hang from the balconies and fresh bread and homemade jams are served for breakfast.

Walking through the old quarters

Morning in Kastoria smells of water. Mist rises from the lake, and the streets of the old quarter of Doltso look as if time stood still here in the 17th century. Stone houses, faded signs, wooden bay windows, and narrow staircases ascending to churches.

I walked along Tsakalov Street, where the windows still bear traces of old engravings, and then turned onto Patriarch Gennadiou Street—and found myself among the archondika palaces: the homes of merchants and fur artisans , once the richest in the region. Today, many of them have been restored and opened as museums.

One of the most beautiful is the Tsiatsiapa Mansion . Inside, there are antique carpets, carved furniture, fireplaces, and mirrors reflecting the past.

Byzantine breath

At every turn in Kastoria, there are small Byzantine churches, seemingly rooted in the earth. There are no tourist queues here, just the smell of incense and candles glowing near ancient frescoes. If you're lucky, a neighbor will crack open a door, and you'll see 12th-century frescoes.

I was particularly touched by the Byzantine Museum of Kastoria , which houses a collection of icons from local churches. It's a small but bright space where you sense not religion, but the silence of centuries.

New Town and Embankment

After lunch, I went out to the embankment. There's a smooth promenade that runs around the entire lake. You can take a bike or just walk and listen to the lapping of the water.

On the corner of the old cinema is The International, a café serving strong Greek coffee and rosewater pastries. A little further on is my favorite, Cafe 108 : a balcony overlooking the Emmanuel brothers' houses, and a plate of gigantes beans, fresh bread, and a glass of tsipouro.

In the evening, Kastoria seems to become quiet – only footsteps and the wings of birds can be heard.

City of fur and crafts

Even if fur isn't your thing, you can't deny that the fur trade made Kastoria world-famous. Small workshops still operate here, where fur is processed by hand, respecting tradition.

Some furriers' houses are open as museums, where you can see old wooden molds and tools used by craftsmen hundreds of years ago. This is a reminder of the time when Kastoria was the wealthiest city in Northern Greece.

Lake Orestiada

In the evening, I went down to the water. The sun was setting over the mountains, and everything around me turned golden—the water, the roofs, the old walls. In the reflection, there were two worlds: the one that was leaving, and the one that remained.

Here you realize that Greece is not just Mykonos or Santorini. It is Kastoria, where time flows softly, like light on water.